a country I kept coming back to
España
My Spain journalsI first came to Spain for love. I returned with a backpack. Then, for a chapter of my life, I called Madrid home.
From family traditions in Castilla-La Mancha to tomato-covered streets in Buñol and a first look at Gaudí’s Barcelona — these are the places, stories, and discoveries that made Spain part of my life.
Three chapters of travel • 55 stories & guides • By Rocky Trifari
×3visitasa España
All the places. so many stories.
Start with a place that calls to you. These stops span several visits, with Madrid at the heart of the journey.
One country. Three very different chapters.and one reason I kept going back
Spain became more than a destination for me. To understand the stories, it helps to know when — and why — I was there.
I came for love.
My first visit was a reunion with my boyfriend, Jorge. Madrid led to time with his family in Castilla-La Mancha, then a taste of Valencia.
Madrid → Castilla-La Mancha → Valencia
Read how the first trip began
I came back with a backpack.
After Greece, Spain became another chapter of my backpacking journey. There were friends in Madrid, a stop in Cuenca, and a very messy adventure in Buñol.
Madrid → Cuenca → Valencia & Buñol
Read the Madrid reunion story
I made a life in Madrid.
I moved to Madrid to study Spanish, lived on Calle de Fuencarral, and finally experienced Fallas. Later, my family visited — and we went to Barcelona together.
Madrid base · Valencia · Day trips · Barcelona
Read my 2019 life updateThe dates above describe my travels. Some of the guides were written later, including stories published in 2022–23 about my time in Spain in 2019.
Pick up the journey where you need it
Start with two days in Madrid
The route I used to introduce my family to the city.
Read the travel guide Blog post · Two cities, one tripConnect Madrid & Barcelona
My comparison of ways to travel between the two cities.
Read the travel guide Blog post · A day out of the cityExplore Segovia
An aqueduct, an Alcázar, and six ideas for a day trip.
Read the travel guideLeaving Madrid for Castilla-La Mancha, 2016A reunion. A train ride.a seat at the family table.
My first trip nearly didn’t start: I missed my Christmas flight. Once I arrived, Jorge and I explored Madrid before taking the train to his hometown in Castilla-La Mancha. The holidays introduced me to a more personal side of Spain, from twelve grapes at midnight to finding the king in a roscón.
Read the original blog postsThe city that became home.
Madrid is the center of my Spain story. I’ve experienced it as a visitor, returned to see friends, and learned what it felt like to live there.
The first-trip memories are big ones: the Royal Palace, Chueca, Gran Vía, and a flamenco dinner. But the longer I stayed, the more the little things mattered — my studio, the local festivals, and the sparrows I came to know.
2-Day Travel Guide: How I Showed My Family Madrid in 48 Hours
If you’re visiting for the first time, begin here: the sights, stops, and meals I shared with my family.
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What It Was Like Living On One of the Most Famous Streets in Madrid: Calle de Fuencarral
A look inside the studio and the central Madrid neighborhood I called home.
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The House Sparrows I Hand Tamed and Bonded With In Madrid, Spain
One of my most personal Madrid memories: the small birds that became part of my daily life.
Read the blog postSeñor pájaro, and the parrot who joined the pigeons
A man walking by once shouted “Buenos días, señor pájaro!” at me while the sparrows were landing on my hands. In May 2019 a wild Quaker parrot joined them for pigeon seed. The one on the left is a drawing — and yes, it blinks.
The parrot postMore sides of Madrid, first visit to last
Each card opens a blog post. These accounts reflect my visits; check current admission and opening details when planning.
We Are Chueca Boys: Touring the Gay Part of Madrid
Landing in Madrid and getting to know Chueca.
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Exploring the Gran Vía of Madrid
A walk along Gran Vía at night, in Christmas lights.
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Our Guided Tour of the Royal Palace of Madrid
Inside the largest royal palace in Europe.
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A Flamenco Dinner Date at Corral De La Moreria
A flamenco dinner at Corral de la Morería.
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4 Incredible Destinations You Can Visit in Madrid For FREE
Four places I visited for free.
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Exploring the Egyptian Templo de Debod in Madrid, Spain
A 2,200-year-old Egyptian temple in the middle of Madrid.
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What Are the Green Parrots All Around Spain? A Quaker Parrot Invasion!
The green parrots all over the city — and the one I hand-fed.
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Madrid’s “Verbenas” Are the Best Traditional Festivals In the City
The city’s traditional August verbenas.
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Review of Madrid’s Hotel RIU Plaza España During the Grand Reopening of Edificio España
My Hotel RIU Plaza España review, glass skywalk included.
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Lovely Summer Nights in Madrid With Old & New Friends
Summer nights out with old and new friends.
Read the blog postMake room for the detours.
Some of my favorite Spain stories take place outside the big cities. Choose a day trip by what interests you — or follow my longer journey east through Cuenca.
Segovia
Start with my six-stop guide, from the aqueduct to the Alcázar.
Read my Segovia story
Toledo
A food-focused stop: discovering the marzipan Toledo is known for.
Read my Toledo story
Alcalá de Henares
My day out from Madrid in the city associated with Cervantes.
Read my Alcalá de Henares story
Cuenca
In 2018, a BlaBlaCar ride brought me to Cuenca and its famous hanging houses.
Read my Cuenca story
A little tour of Europe, still in Spain.
Parque Europa brings replicas of European landmarks together in one park. It’s a playful change of scenery from my city and castle visits.
Explore my Parque Europa guideA quieter sip.a louder celebration.
My introduction to Valencia was a glass of horchata and the climb up El Miguelete. Later visits took a much more colorful turn.
In 2018, I made it to La Tomatina in nearby Buñol. In March 2019, after years of wanting to go, I finally experienced Fallas in Valencia. These are separate adventures — and very different ways to get to know the region.
The Beauty That Was Fallas in Valencia, Spain
The elaborate sculptures and spectacle of my first Fallas.
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Let’s Talk About My Rotten Tomato Juice-Induced Pink Eye Infection At La Tomatina
My firsthand account of the tomato fight — and the eye trouble that followed.
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The Story of How I Discovered My Destiny To Attend The La Tomatina Festival In Buñol!
How La Tomatina first caught my attention: one Instagram ad.
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Climbing 207 Steps To the Top of El Miguelete
A first-visit climb to the top of El Miguelete.
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Can You Eat the Sidewalk Oranges Growing in Valencia?
Those sidewalk oranges. The short answer is yes.
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Why Quiet Clubbing Is a Fun Way to Party – For Introverts & Extroverts Alike
A night of quiet clubbing at Piccadilly Downtown.
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A Dunkin’ Donuts Ripoff Called Duffin Dagels Seriously Exists
A Dunkin’ Donuts ripoff called Duffin Dagels seriously exists.
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My Turbulent Flight Home & Our Aborted Landing
Leaving Valencia at 5 AM, and a landing that wasn’t.
Read the blog postA new city, together.
It took until my third trip to Spain to visit Barcelona. When my family came to see me in 2019, we traveled from Madrid and discovered Gaudí’s extraordinary buildings together.
Blog post: Madrid to BarcelonaFour windows into Gaudí’s Barcelona
Choose the landmarks that interest you, then use the individual posts to plan your visit.
Tips for Visiting La Sagrada Família: Gaudí’s Masterpiece in Barcelona
My visit inside the basilica, with tips for planning yours.
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Tips for Visiting Park Güell: Gaudí, The Cheetah Girls, and More!
Mosaics, park views, and the places my sister wanted to see.
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What Is Casa Batlló? Tips for Visiting Gaudí’s “House of Bones”
A closer look at Gaudí’s remarkable “House of Bones.”
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Is It Worth Visiting Casa Milà (La Pedrera) in Barcelona, Spain?
My experience at La Pedrera and whether I found it worth visiting.
Read the blog postThe taste of a placestays with you.
Meals and local traditions run through every chapter of my Spain travels. Here are the delicious places to begin.
Dipping Churros in Chocolate at Chocolatería San Ginés
My first-trip stop at Chocolatería San Ginés for churros dipped in chocolate.
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The Wondrous Taste of Tigernut Horchata and Fartons
Discovering tigernut horchata and the pastries served alongside it.
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Eating Dinner At the World’s Oldest Restaurant: Restaurante Botín
The story of our dinner at Madrid’s historic Restaurante Botín.
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Hidden Reclusive Nuns Sell Secret Cookies in Madrid
The hidden convent cookies, ordered through a wall.
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5 Foods You Have to Try Before Leaving Spain
Five foods from my first trip, jamón to arroz negro.
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Sampling The Legendary Suckling Pig of Segovia
Cochinillo in Segovia: what it is, what it costs, where we ate it.
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Did You Know Toledo Is Famous for Its Marzipan?
Marzipan in Toledo, one of my favorite confections.
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Swallowing 12 Grapes to Celebrate the New Year
Twelve grapes, one per bell strike, at midnight.
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Guess Whose Roscón Had the King Inside!!!
The king inside my roscón on Three Kings Day.
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Adjusting to Prices In Western Europe After Landing in Madrid
Eating well on a budget after landing from Greece.
Read the blog postTravel changed. So did I.
There is another side to these journals: a long-distance relationship, the decision to move abroad, finding somewhere to stay, and starting over. Those stories belong here, too.
I’m Moving to Spain!? My Long-Distance Relationship Update (USA & Spain)
Why I decided to move to Spain.
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Awaiting the Approval of a Spanish Student Visa and Preparing to Move to Spain
Waiting for my student visa — and booking the flight anyway.
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How to Apply for a Student Visa to Study in Spain
My student visa application experience, step by step.
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Staying In Madrid Can Be Expensive Except For When It Is Free
An Airbnb in Sol, a moldy wall, and a full refund.
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Couchsurfing With Friends Is All Fun & Games Until…
When couchsurfing became complicated.
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Hi There, I’m Alive! Let’s Consider This Recap My Blog’s 2019 Year-In-Review
Looking back at a year that changed my life.
Read the blog postMy visa posts document my own application and move. Requirements change; use the current guidance from the Spanish consulate responsible for where you live.
Every chapter is here.
Browse all 55 posts, from destination guides to the small, unexpected moments between trips. Dates are publication dates.
55 blog posts
Tips for Visiting Park Güell: Gaudí, The Cheetah Girls, and More!
Read
What Is Casa Batlló? Tips for Visiting Gaudí’s “House of Bones”
Read
Is It Worth Visiting Casa Milà (La Pedrera) in Barcelona, Spain?
Read
Tips for Visiting La Sagrada Família: Gaudí’s Masterpiece in Barcelona
Read
What Is the Best Way to Travel to Barcelona From Madrid?
Read
Review of Madrid’s Hotel RIU Plaza España During the Grand Reopening of Edificio España
Read
2-Day Travel Guide: How I Showed My Family Madrid in 48 Hours
Read
The House Sparrows I Hand Tamed and Bonded With In Madrid, Spain
Read
What Are the Green Parrots All Around Spain? A Quaker Parrot Invasion!
Read
Madrid’s “Verbenas” Are the Best Traditional Festivals In the City
Read
Taking a Day Trip from Madrid to Alcalá de Henares
Read
Exploring the Egyptian Templo de Debod in Madrid, Spain
Read
What It Was Like Living On One of the Most Famous Streets in Madrid: Calle de Fuencarral
Read
How to Tour Europe In One Day By Visiting Spain’s Parque Europa
Read
6 Things To Do During a Day Trip to Segovia, Spain
Read
El Alcazar De Segovia: The Spanish Castle That Inspired Walt Disney
Read
Sampling The Legendary Suckling Pig of Segovia
Read
Did You Know Toledo Is Famous for Its Marzipan?
Read
Eating Dinner At the World’s Oldest Restaurant: Restaurante Botín
Read
Hidden Reclusive Nuns Sell Secret Cookies in Madrid
Read
How to Apply for a Student Visa to Study in Spain
Read
Hi There, I’m Alive! Let’s Consider This Recap My Blog’s 2019 Year-In-Review
Read
The Beauty That Was Fallas in Valencia, Spain
Read
Awaiting the Approval of a Spanish Student Visa and Preparing to Move to Spain
Read
I’m Moving to Spain!? My Long-Distance Relationship Update (USA & Spain)
Read
Why Quiet Clubbing Is a Fun Way to Party – For Introverts & Extroverts Alike
Read
Let’s Talk About My Rotten Tomato Juice-Induced Pink Eye Infection At La Tomatina
Read
The Story of How I Discovered My Destiny To Attend The La Tomatina Festival In Buñol!
Read
The Casas Colgadas and Other Top Things to See and Do In Cuenca, Spain
Read
Getting Pulled Over By the Police Right After Hopping Into a Stranger’s Van
Read
Couchsurfing With Friends Is All Fun & Games Until…
Read
Staying In Madrid Can Be Expensive Except For When It Is Free
Read
Lovely Summer Nights in Madrid With Old & New Friends
Read
Adjusting to Prices In Western Europe After Landing in Madrid
Read
Waking Up in the Middle of a Misty Jungle at 4AM
Read
My Turbulent Flight Home & Our Aborted Landing
Read
The Wondrous Taste of Tigernut Horchata and Fartons
Read
5 Foods You Have to Try Before Leaving Spain
Read
Climbing 207 Steps To the Top of El Miguelete
Read
A Dunkin’ Donuts Ripoff Called Duffin Dagels Seriously Exists
Read
Can You Eat the Sidewalk Oranges Growing in Valencia?
Read
Guess Whose Roscón Had the King Inside!!!
Read
The Veggetti Spiralizes Vegetables into Spaghetti
Read
Swallowing 12 Grapes to Celebrate the New Year
Read
Taking a Train to the Castilla-La Mancha Region of Spain
Read
4 Incredible Destinations You Can Visit in Madrid For FREE
Read
A Flamenco Dinner Date at Corral De La Moreria
Read
Our Guided Tour of the Royal Palace of Madrid
Read
Dipping Churros in Chocolate at Chocolatería San Ginés
Read
Exploring the Gran Vía of Madrid
Read
We Are Chueca Boys: Touring the Gay Part of Madrid
Read
Merry Christmas, I Missed My Flight To Spain!
Read
Tonight, My Heart Races … Spain Awaits!
Read
I’m Going to See My Boyfriend in Spain This Winter Break!
Read
My Boyfriend Made it Back Safely to Spain
ReadNo matching stories yet. Try a broader search or choose “All posts.”
My experiences. Your next adventure.
Use these stories to decide what interests you. For today’s tickets, schedules, and requirements, go straight to the official sources.
Considering a study stay? Check the Spanish consulate serving your home address. My original application was through New York; its current student visa guidance is here.
Hasta la próxima, España.
For the next adventure, follow the journey beyond Spain.
Read the Backpacking Chronicles